South Africa Rugby Tour

34 boys from Year 11 and Sixth Form spent two weeks in South Africa on their rugby tour during July. The diary that they kept during their travels is detailed below and a photo gallery can been viewed at the bottom of the page.

Tuesday 27 July
Quite remarkably the group all made the 5.45am meeting time set for our morning game drive. So with everyone wrapped in blankets against the cold we set out in anticipation. Having been spoilt by the sheer volume of animals that we saw on yesterday’s drive, today had a lot to live up to; the sightings of giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, antelope, warthog, jackal, rhino, hippo and crocodile were however, not to be sniffed at. The main highlight was the sighting of two large male lions meeting (one being trailed by three jackals) and then walking together in the open grassland. During the late afternoon as we drove back from Sun City one group also saw some elephants and three rhino, including the rare black rhino species. As the morning grew warmer we returned in time for another large breakfast and a chance to warm up before departing for our last ‘R&R’ session in Sun City. For the first few hours the whole group enjoyed the wave pool and slides at the Valley of the Waves and although the water was chilly to say the least, the warm sun more than compensated. Some of the group then left this attraction to discover other forms of entertainment in this vast complex such as jet skiing and shopping.

On our return the group made their way back to the chalets to relax prior to meeting at 7.00pm for the final dinner of the tour. Looking remarkably smart, especially considering that their shirts, ties and trousers had been shoved in and out of their bags for the past thirteen days, we sat together to enjoy a hearty meal, a few drinks and some speeches. Mr Maskery ran proceedings and the speeches from Mr Cummins, Mr Rees and the tour captain Ahlexi were well received. A few comedy awards were followed by the main event. Chris Wheeker received the ‘Man Up’ award for his remarkable tackling and endeavours on the pitch, while Morgan Wigham (apparently receiving his first ever award after eleven years at Cokethorpe) rightly received the ‘Best Tourist’ prize. James Silver received the ‘Junior Player’ award, while Ahlexi received the award for ‘Greatest Contribution to the Whole Tour’, not only for his captaincy and his powerful performances, but for the humor he brought to every occasion. The final award for ‘Player of the Tour’ had taken the staff a long time to decide upon as there were many potential candidates (most notably Julian, Laurie, Jake, Ahlexi and Rory), but it in end the prize deservedly went to Ed Church.

The rest of the evening was spent playing a few games of pool while small groups reminisced about the last two weeks, some with slightly damp eyes. This superb evening finished with the groups’ best rendition of Angels by Robbie Williams and Jerusalem, before everyone made their way back to their chalets for a good nights sleep.
It is difficult to adequately summarise this tour but as the sun sets on this exceptional African adventure, I would respectfully like to adjust a quote from a great French Alpinist, as the sentiments expressed perhaps best encapsulate the last two weeks:

Together we were warmed then burnt by the sun, caressed by the breeze then whipped by the wind (of the Southern Ocean). Together we knew and shared apprehension, doubts and fear; and yet it was there, on that African adventure, that we learnt of the life, the ardor, the strength that burnt deep within us. And then there was friendship.

Monday 26 July
Having retired to bed after a good evening, the tour party once again enjoyed the rare opportunity for a lie-in until their 9.00am breakfast call. After saying thank you and goodbye to the staff of the Konka Camp who had helped to make our stay so successful, we set off for Pilanesberg with high spirits and the hope of seeing as many of the 'Big 5' as possible.

Having settled into their chalets the group either relaxed for by the pool or spent their time trying to get as close as possible to the small monkeys wandering freely around the buildings. Few who witnessed the sight of Phil Quadri sprinting a full 50 meters being chased by a slightly irritated mother will ever forget that sight!

At 4.00pm we boarded the two open-sided trucks and entered the park (larger in size than the whole of Oxfordshire) for our game drive and ‘bush braai’. The sight of a large solitary rhino bedecked in small birds set the scene and although we pursued possible lion sightings without success, we did see small groups of antelopes, wildebeests, zebra, two families of warthogs and young and old giraffes. The real highlight of the drive was the twenty minutes spent watching a group of ten elephants as they ate, pushed over trees and sprayed themselves with mud at the side of the road. In their group was a baby less than a week old; it was thrilling to watch as he explored the long grass, got stuck in bushes and even crossed the road 15 meters from our truck! More elephant sightings and groups of enormous rhinos made this a wonderful trip.

As the evening grew increasing cold and dark, wrapped in blankets and guided only by a few flickering lights and some wonderful aromas, we made our way down a small mud track to our braai. Having eaten vast amounts of delicious food (especially the impala and trifles) the group sat relaxing, telling jokes and singing for a very pleasant hour or so.

They then returned home for an early night to prepare for a 5.15am wake-up-call for the early morning game drive.

Sunday 25 July
A number of loud but cheerful birds signaled the beginning of a very bright yet cold day. At breakfast there was an air of uncertainty and expectation: not only was everyone aware that today’s match would determine whether the squad returned to the UK undefeated, but also because the squad itself had yet to be announced. The decision was made all the more difficult since the need to win was offset by the recognition that the Year 13 players would be putting on a Cokethorpe strip for the last time.

At 11.00am strapping-up started which, due to the affects of seven games in such a short space of time, took quite a while. Then after a short pre-match talk the squad walked onto the pitch with a degree of confidence to meet their opposition – a development side from the Leopard Province.

The game shaped up to be a great experience and one where the Cokethorpe squad showed their power and control against an athletic free-running side. Playing on the High Veldt without a long period of acclimatization was a real experience and the baked grounds and altitude were real issues. High energy bursts were followed by periods of heavy breathing and a temporary feeling of extreme exhaustion. Despite this Cokethorpe played excellent rugby with some great individual tries to produce a comfortable 47–12 win. Although the Leopards’ side scored two late tries, nothing could diminish the sense of achievement felt by the boys, not only for going undefeated on this tour, but for two outstanding years which has seen the 1st XV win 26 of their 28 games. After a short presentation to our opposition, who had picked up the fixture at late notice, the whole squad and some staff celebrated by launching themselves into the freezing waters of the outdoor pool to cool off.

The match was followed by some rest and relaxation. This began with a ride down an 80 metre zip-wire (few will forget Sprouts’ 360 degree flip) and blindfolded canoe races. The navigation officers’ skills were greatly tested as the opposition team members (once again instigated by chief prankster Ahlexi) decided that mud bombs were the order of the day.

Having showered it was time for dinner and a social in the bar area to watch England U18s play South Africa on the television. The evening ended with a wrestling match between ‘Irresistible Iestyn Rees’ (17 stone, 10lb) and the tag team ‘The Bombastic Brothers’ (weighing in at less). It was a great night and our last at the camp before transferring to our final destination.

Saturday 24 July
Although the meeting time at Uplands was at 9.00am many of the party were up early as they were taken by their hosts to see some wonderful sights. Morgan visited the chimps and was apparently pelted with stones by one of them, who has a thing for blond-haired people. Jordan and James saw hippos, while others saw giraffes as they were allowed to drive 4X 4s on their host’s estate.

So, after bidding farewell to their host families the boys settled back for the seven-hour coach drive to Konka Camp – the venue for the last match. On arrival we were shown to the Boma Chalets (thatched cottages) and our own thatched Braai (South African for BBQ) hut. With no time to spare we ate a belated lunch then changed for a rapid fire paintball session.

It was then dinner and a chance to unwind in the bar area before a good night’s sleep – a real necessity prior to starting the build up to our last game against the Leopard’s (North West Province) Development side.

Friday 23 July
The day once again began early as the squad arrived at Uplands College with their hosts for the start of their school day at 7.45am.

Having reviewed the reasons for the 1st XV’s disappointing performance in the last game, it was decided that a very easy morning followed by a rest in a shady environment was called for if all the players were to perform well in the two upcoming matches. A forty-five minute scenic drive saw us arrive in Sarbie, a small farming and logging town near a number of spectacular waterfalls cascading over the steep escarpment of the nearby mountains. As it was possible to drive to the foot of the creek we took that option and were soon standing beside the plunge pool at the foot of the 150 foot falls. Some decided to walk to the top to see the spectacular vistas, while others opted for the shade, and even a quick splash in the freezing waters. Another stop for water and bananas was followed by lunch on the shaded balcony of a hotel before transferring to Uplands.

The 2nd XV's match, against a side who had just lost the area cup final by two points, was always going to be a real test, however once Chris Wheeker had 'munched' one of their big players in a tremendous tackle, the scene was set. They playing with good levels of control and discipline the team was constantly rotated to ensure that all the squad had good game time and so that some key individuals had reserves in the tank for the 1st XV game. Hugo Shellard led his side superbly to a well-deserved victory with points coming from Alex Lowe penalties and a try from James Silver (much to his own delight as he had purchased himself in the player auction!).

As the heat of the day began to subside the 1st XV, who had previously encouraged their peers, energetically took to the field for what proved to be a bruising encounter, playing against determined opponents (many playing their last game for their school). Once again the scene was set early on when Ed Church and Ahlexi Enjily smashed into a big, hard Uplands running centre in a thunderous collision much to the surprise of all watching and not least to the player in question, whose reaction showed his shock at what had occurred.

This game which was a great encounter, will be remembered for its physical intensity; the disciplined approach of the Cokethorpe squad; the high work rate of numerous players (which left Andy Berry sick with fatigue at the end) and a most amazing cover tackle from our flier Jake Wilson who ran fully 80 meters to prevent a certain interception try from the Uplands centre. Initial problems at the scrummage were ironed out superbly by the front row the lineout functioned well, probably for the first time on tour and the backs played with thought and control, as we built momentum by going though the phases. Both wings Jake Wilson and Nick Baboolal scored very well-worked tries and Will Millett kicked a conversion and two penalties. Once again Rory, Julian and Mark did what they do best! Andy Berry carried and distributed with real class, while Ahlexi and Ed left a trail of destruction all over the park. The man of the match performance went to Laurie Gibson – probably his finest performance in a Cokethorpe shirt, which was wonderful to see.

When the final whistle went both sides set aside the emotion and tension and once again the true values of the sport shone through as players, host families and staff enjoying a wonderful post match function together as the sun set in this beautiful part of the world. All players left well fed and very satisfied with 2 fine wins (2nd XV 11–3 and the 1st XV 20–11) against a school which Cokethorpe would undoubtedly hope to visit again.

Thursday 22 July
Another early start, in order to make the 40 minute journey to Cape Town Airport for our transfer, saw some bleary eyes around the breakfast table this morning. After a quick check-in and a pleasant flight, with great views according to Rory, we then began our long journey to White River some five hours away. The journey went quite quickly with the boys passing time with a few light-hearted songs, a player auction (first try scorer tomorrow) and a bit of fast food. Eventually we arrived to be met by our hosts outside a hall hosting a Year 11 social - this certainly woke up some of the previously weary boys! Having said goodbye to the players, the staff drove off in an ever darkening and chilly night to find their accommodation ahead of some peaceful sightseeing and two tough games in the coming days.

Wednesday 21 July
A good nights sleep, followed by a huge breakfast and a gentle training session should have set up the squad for today’s game. As it was, the outcome was undecided right up until the final whistle, as the team struggled to produce the powerful and fluid rugby displayed in all four of their previous matches. The 14-12 win ensured that we remain unbeaten on tour, however we ended a difficult day having learnt a few lessons about the realities of touring in a hot country. The boys definitely now appreciate the importance of rest and that high fluid intake is a vital ingredient in both preparation and recovery.

At 2.15pm we set off on the 30 minute drive to Strand through some impressive wine growing areas and beautiful farmland. Having arrived at our opponent’s impressive school campus, with its rugby stadium and incredible backdrop, everyone realised that we needed to produce a good performance. We began impressively not allowing the opposition a sniff of the ball for much of the first 15 minutes, however all we had to show for it was a 3 point lead from a well struck penalty by Will Millett. The opposition, Hottentots Holland High School, showed their fine counter attacking abilities when we did not control the ball or kicked unwisely. They then scored a converted try from a fumble, following a string of penalties to take a 6–7 lead. Julian Watkins helped to relieve a bit of tension with a fine try, resulting in us taking the lead at half time by 11–7. The second half continued in a similar way as we struggled to find our rhythm and control possession. The opposition then scored a try to take a 11–12 lead as we entered the final quarter. Will Millett secured our win with a good penalty after we began to exercise greater control, playing some more thoughtful rugby in crucial areas of the field. Great credit must go to the back triangle, consisting of Jake Wilson, Guy Biggs and Chris Clare, for their great cover and scramble defense, and to a number of forwards who continued to work hard despite feeling the effects of the 26 degree heat and the fast pace of the game.

After a wonderful reception hosted by the Headmaster, we returned to our hotel where we quickly packed and enjoyed a variety of burgers (ostrich being the most popular!) and a well earned drink, before getting some rest before tomorrow’s journey to White River on the edge of the Kruger National Park.

Tuesday 20 July
Another early start saw the group say their final thank you to their host families prior to departing for the Stellenbosch area. As the early morning mist dissipated we were treated to wonderful views of Ostrich and large antelope grazing amongst the cattle in farm fields nestling beneath the majestic mountains.

A brief lecture from our guide preceded a leisurely stroll around the various compounds housing a variety of lions aged from 4 months to 5 years. Parents will be pleased to know that one of the boys thought they looked 'just like cats' and someone asked if they had any tigers in the lion park. The hour or so spent in the ever warming sun was followed by a wine tasting session where six different wines were offered by the wine farm staff, to varying degrees of pleasure and acceptance. Our host then took the group through to the cellar to describe the process and the various storage methods including the use of French oak barrels. A brief visit to view some beautiful vintage jaguar cars was followed by our first real chance to chill after the short drive to out hotel in the centre of the university town of Stellenbosch. A sleep and a stroll renewed appetites so it was off to a local steak house for dinner followed by a good night's sleep and our first lie in.

Monday 19 July
A wonderfully diverse day finished with a set of speeches and presentations following two satisfying and physically competitive fixtures in the beautiful setting of Ronderbosch in the shade of the back side of Table Mountain. Earlier that day the group had assembled (some later than others) in the School Hall at Westerford (South Africa’s highest-achieving academic school) following a night of contrasting experiences with welcoming and caring host families.

From Westerford the coach took the group via an unsuspecting supermarket to the Township of Langa on the outskirts of Cape Town. Langa the smallest but oldest of the Cape Town Townships is a diverse blend of new government-sponsored housing to wooden and tin shacks and is home to some 90,000. (Until recently Langa had one of the highest levels of HIV/AIDS in South Africa. With approximately 40 burials taking place some weekends - this represented a death rate of around 2,000 persons per year, up from an estimated 306 in 1999-2000 and 117 in 1996.)

Our three guided tours began with a visit to the 'settled' streets of the Harlem Rd area and the sport ground where visionaries such as the late cricket coach Bob Woolmer spread the word of the power of sport as a community activity and a possible route out of abject poverty. The tour continued with a visit to church missionary school’s and the edge of the wild 'bush area' still used today for the month long male initiation ceremonies where traditions spreading back thousands of years are still practiced allowing boys to return as men. The groups, having visited a local sand artist, boarded the coach to tour the various areas of the diverse but always slightly shocking settled areas. The mix of rows of boiled and barbequed sheep’s heads, street urchins and new BMW cars is somehow difficult to comprehend. The tour bus then dropped the group off at the edge of one of the many shack areas where the boys bartered for souvenirs or played with the little children between the rows of shacks and packet system toilet blocks. It was here that the boys were allowed to sample the strongly yeast flavoured beer from a large pot popular with the old in the many sheebeens that are still dotted around this poverty stricken area. The tour concluded with a feast in a local Township restaurant where the party along with the younger boys of Moulsford Prep were treated to a limitless supply of local food served up by Sheila and accompanied by a band playing and singing a mix of traditional and modern songs.

On leaving Langa with a degree of humility and a greater level of understanding we transferred to the completely contrasting suburb of Newlands and Ronderbosch for our second set of games. An U17 XV, led by Julian Watkins, kicked off proceedings with an initially hard fought contest with our hosts. After 15 minutes George Lane followed up Paul Prinold’s earlier scoring effort to effectively set the tone of the game and establish a winning platform. This was followed by an 80 meter solo effort from man-of-the-match Julian Watkins to gasps from a healthy crowd who surrounded the pitch, where in the last 18 months the Lions, Wales and France have trained prior to playing in Cape Town. Further scores from Jake Wilson and Toby Raban with Will Millett also adding a penalty and 3 conversions in a 34–8 win.

By contrast the 'Leavers' XV' (a wonderful initiative) took a real age to settle but eventually subdued a spirited and sometimes feisty Groote Schuur High School. The opening 10 minutes proved difficult as not only did the team incur the wrath of the referee at the tackle area but they also fell behind to a converted try after only 5 minutes. This game will be remembered for the outstanding tackling by captain Ahlexi Enjily playing out of position in the centre, the work rate of Ed Church and the display of power running of two-try man-of-the-match Rory Gratwohl. Even this usually self-effacing character allowed himself a rare congratulatory smile. Two real power play tries from Laurie Gibson also helped to steady the nerves before a fine solo effort from Chris Clare (and two conversions), preceded by a try from Ollie Shellard eventually saw the team run out comfortable 41–7 winners.

Tomorrow the group transfer to Stellenbosch to enjoy the delights of a visit to a wine farm and lions park before the next challenge on the rugby field.

Sunday 18 July: Mandela Day
Another early departure saw the boys board the Ferry for the 30 minute transfer to Robben Island. This tour had two parts, the first a guided bus tour of parts of the island where our guide spoke eloquently about the history of the buildings and churches, and the Limestone quarry where the former inmate Nelson Mandela and many of his co-prisoners worked daily for many years. The second part was a moving account of the realities of life as a prisoner given by a former inmate who not only spoke passionately about his treatment but also about his shared experiences with Nelson Mandela. The tour finished with a visit to Mandela’s cell block and the gardens where he secretly stored his memoirs prior to them being discovered, when work began on a new wall that was built to increase the security for the political prisoners.

As the day was wonderfully clear and sunny we drove to the cable car station to ascend to the summit of Table Mountain some 6 thousand feet above sea level. The views not only of Cape Town but also of the Cape of Good Hope and both the Atlantic and Indian Oceans were breathtaking.

Having spent a wonderful hour at the summit the group then transferred to Westerford School in Ronderbosch to be met by their host families for their two day stay. We did our best to warn the families that they might need fresh provisions as the boys have struggled to control their appetites.

Day 4 tomorrow sees the boys visit the Langa Township prior to a Junior XV playing our host School and a leavers squad playing Groote Schuur High School, which we are sure will be far sterner tests.

Saturday 17 July
An early start saw the whole party travel for 40 minutes to Lagunya Rugby Club on the edge of the Nyanga Township. As we pulled into the car park it was noticeable how quiet the bus was, however when Chris Wheeker scored after just 5 minutes there was an almost audible sigh of relief. The 2nd XV eventually ran out comfortable winners 35–0 with tries from Hugo Shellard, Will Millett, George Lane and Torin Pocock. Will Millett converted 4 and Alex Lowe 1. Considering that the squad has not played since early December, once the early nerves had settled this was an impressive display. Special mention must be made of Alex Grout for his work rate and tackling and Will Millett for an impressive senior debut.

Following this game the 1st XV took to the field and immediately stamped their authority on the match eventually running out comfortable winners 55–0 with tries from Rory Gratwohl, Andy Berry, Guy Biggs, Jake Wilson (2), Ollie Shellard, Chris Clare, Ed Church and Julian Watkins. Guy Biggs and Chris Clare converting 1 each and Josh Atkins 3. All the boys acquitted themselves well in this ideal warm-up game. Following the games we assembled in the club house for a brief post-match reception, which saw us make a presentation of a television and decoder to allow the members the opportunity to watch rugby matches for the first time and to present the kit that individuals had donated.

The donations were well received by our hosts and as all the players mingled in the post match reception it was gratifying and wonderfully warming to witness the friendship between Cokethorpe and the Lagunya players. We thought that Jacob Wilson was quick but this was eclipsed by a young 8 year old who, having been given the gift of a bag of Haribo, left scorch marks as he sprinted across the car park pursued by six of his friends. The party then transferred to Newlands stadium to watch Western Province outclass the Gauteng Lions. The group then returned to the Waterfront for the evening prior to a well earned rest.

Friday 16 July
After a long and often turbulent 12 hour flight the plane landed on time. Unfortunately the mid-winter Cape Town weather was not kind to us and we drove into the city in a rain storm unable to see Table Mountain because of low cloud. Due to the adverse weather the scheduled trip up Table Mountain was cancelled but having checked into the hotel the once again 'starving' youth of Cokethorpe were unleashed in the lively V&A Waterfront area – a wonderful mix of shops, Malls, restaurants and street entertainers.

Armed with the task of entertaining 34 energetic boys, messers Rees and Cummins set off to find an alternative to Table Mountain. Having negotiated a deal the now vuvuzela-armed party climbed on board a large catamaran for a sail in the choppy ocean off Cape Town bay. Oh what a trip undaunted by the heavy seas the hardy nautical types (Wigham and Holliday in particular) braved the front of the 'Cat' and dodged, with varying degrees of success the waves crashing through the nylon webbing, while others at times looking decidedly pale or green opted for the more protected interior or stood at the stern gripping the rails. Suddenly the whole group rushed to starboard as someone shouted 'whale' and yes 40 meters off to the side was a large humpback gently moving through the rough waters. On our return to the more tranquil waters inside the breakwater we were treated to the sight of two more whales surfacing together and a number of large seals.

The day was rounded off with a gentle stretch and a good training session on a nearby rugby pitch in the shadow of the new World Cup football stadium, Green Point. As the group returned for a shower, messers Maskery and Cummins went to the stadium and persuaded the grounds man to actually let them on to the pitch of this fantastic arena.
The evening was spent enjoying a pleasant meal together in a restaurant before a well-earned night's sleep after an eventful and almost sleepless 31 hours.

Friday 16 July, 10.30am
Mr Maskery has just called to confirm that they have arrived safely in Cape Town and that they are now on their way to their first destination. It was a pleasant flight and everyone is well.

Thursday 15 July, 4.30pm
The tourists depart from the School.